We Asked Two Italian Moms the Secret to the Best Lasagna, and They Both Said the Same Thing

On our sister site, The Kitchn, the most popular recipe of 2024 by far was Kelli Foster’s classic lasagna. (Kelli is The Kitchn’s official Dinner Therapist and the person behind some of our most beloved recipes like Tuscan Chicken and our Best-Ever French Toast.)  I’m not usually a lasagna girl (I wasn’t even when everyone else was in 2020!). They take forever, and I’m never that impressed. Baked ziti? So much easier, just as good. Or, at least that’s what I thought until Kelli’s recipe forever changed my baked pasta perspective.

Before Kelli began her quest to develop the perfect lasagna, she checked in with two true lasagna experts, a friend of hers who grew up just outside of Venice, Italy, and an Italian American recipe developer and culinary producer. They both gave her the same advice: Ditch the ricotta and make béchamel sauce. 

Get the recipe: The Most Delicious Lasagna of All Time

I realized the reason I never loved lasagna before was the ricotta. It can get a little dry or grainy when baked, which makes all the fuss of assembling the dang thing feel not worth it. I want the filling to be absurdly creamy, which is exactly what béchamel accomplishes while simultaneously not being too heavy! With the white sauce, you don’t need, nor will you miss, mozzarella. Plus, I think the pinch of nutmeg makes it taste a touch fancy. I made this recipe for Christmas dinner, and all 10 people I served it to enthusiastically agreed that they much preferred this version to lasagnas with ricotta. 

My second favorite thing about the recipe is Ina’s lasagna noodle trick. Instead of boiling the noodles first, you let them soak in hot water in the baking pan. After 30ish minutes, drain them, wipe the pan dry, and layer everything up. With two homemade sauces, this recipe is a labor of love, so you’ll be glad to be able to skip cleaning an extra pot. 

What dishes you do need to clean are 100% worth it. The béchamel only works if the Bolognese is good, and Kelli’s recipe is ridiculously delicious, especially considering it only requires 30 minutes of simmering once all the ingredients are in the pot. You start by crisping up some pancetta before sautéing your mirepoix (carrots, onion, celery) in the pancetta fat. This extra step adds a subtle richness that olive oil just can’t match. I also love that in addition to crushed tomatoes, there’s a can of tomato sauce, which adds a hearty thickness and more concentrated tomato flavor. 

• Cook with a friend. Or your partner. Or if you’re like me, your mom. While my husband was away for a work trip, my mom helped me at home with my two girls. She also made cooking this lasagna for our family’s holiday dinner miles easier, and more fun. 
• Make a game plan. This is not a quick and easy recipe! There will be a good amount of shopping, prep, cooking, and cleaning. Read through the recipe a couple times first and come up with your strategy and timeline.
• Make the sauces ahead of time. I made both a day ahead, but you can even do two days. Refrigerate them in separate containers and place a sheet of plastic wrap directly on the béchamel to prevent a skin from forming. Gently reheat each sauce before assembling and while the noodles are soaking.
• Let the lasagna cool for at least 15 minutes. Seriously, follow the recipe instructions! It’s always tempting to dig right in, but if you want the layers, let it hang for a bit first. 

Get the recipe: The Most Delicious Lasagna of All Time

This article originally published on The Kitchn. See it there: We Asked Two Italian Moms the Secret to the Best Lasagna, and They Both Said the Same Thing